Brunello, Meet Michael: When Italian Menswear Meets Streetwear

Recently, I’ve been spending more of my time on MFA and a thread about personal style got me thinking about how I would define my style now. After all, this blog has been all about how my personal style has evolved and what I’ve learned from other outlets.

I’ve thought more and more (especially because of the discussions here of MFA clones) about what personal style is and what mine is. I started getting into style with Jordans and Nikes early on in high school and it just naturally progressed to higher quality, more tailored clothing. Though I do dress casually put-together (chinos and button-downs are my not-quite uniform) as I’m a Midwestern college student, the style I shoot for—and, start to employ more and more—is essentially “Old Italian dude with a streetwear attitude.”

That just happened naturally. The guys I look up to most in street style and elsewhere are Italian men with their slim fits and casual tailoring. Same reason why my favorite brands are Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, and LBM 1911. It’s the cut and the fabrics and the way it’s all pulled together with this sense of incredible comfort and style at the same time.

But, on the other hand, I got into fashion/style originally through streetwear, and though I rarely actually wear full-on streetwear fits, I like to inject a little bit of the attitude into everything I wear.

At the same time, I also draw influences from lots of other arenas: Americana hunting/outdoors gear is probably the third most important in my personal style, but trad/prep (I did go to a NE boarding school) and just about everything else catch my eye from time to time.

Since I started blogging and reading fashion blogs, it’s always been about me cultivating my own style—and trying not to mimic other people’s. That doesn’t mean Clarks DBs, dark wash denim, and OCBDs aren’t at the core of my wardrobe, I just like to have my own style that I aim for.

What I find most inspiring about the style of “old Italian men” is how they blend refined tailoring and casual comfort into looks that are both put-together and completely natural looking. Italians do especially well  in mixing bold colors and patterns—especially non-navy blues. For a lesson on pattern mixing or aggressive (but not silly) color combinations, there’s no place better to look.

Streetwear, on the other hand, is what I grew up with. It’s what I hear in my headphones as I listen to Jay-Z, Pusha T, and (especially) A$AP Rocky. Blending them is a challenge, because, in many ways, they are on opposite ends of the style spectrum. For me, it’s not necessarily about borrowing items from either style and mashing them together so much as it is me gathering influences from all over. I could wear an outfit entirely made up of items that would be considered Streetwear, and still take color and pattern influences from the old Italian gents I so admire.

I am becoming more adventurous and taking more risks with clothing purchases these days, as I feel my collection of basics is well rounded and mostly complete. No doubt, my normal outfits fail to mirror the styles I admire so much. As a 20-year-old broke college student, that’s nothing to be ashamed of. Maybe in a year’s time, my closet will match my aspirations a little better. Or maybe those stylistic aspirations will be completely different. Only time will tell. For now, I’m happy mixing ideas borrowed from the likes of Lapo Elkann, Gianni Agnelli, and the Brunello Cucinelli lookbook with Michael Jordan, the aforementioned A$AP Rocky, and the guys I see on MFA. 


Timo Weiland Men’s Show at F/W 2013 NY Fashion Week.









Just trying my hand at some street style. 


NYFW

I’m about to leave for my first Fashion Week. Follow me on Instagram @maisondeveriteJB for current photos. I’ll post a follow-up when I get back home next week. Hopefully it’s a terrific time in the world’s fashion capital. 

See you there. 



Proper Fit | Shirts, Jackets & Trousers

ardenreed:

Fit is the number one most important factor in men’s style. That cannot be stressed enough. The difference between an $89 blazer from H&M and a $1200 Armani coat is minimal when they’re both well tailored.

That is why going custom—especially at prices offered by modern bespoke tailors both on- and offline—is so popular today. We at Arden Reed believe that fit and good tailoring are the foundations of the stylish man.

Sometimes we convince ourselves to buy that new shirt, even when we know it doesn’t fit.

Don’t!

It’ll just end up hanging in your closet. (Confession time: I’m often guilty of this)

Remember that you can get any article tailored, but certain aspects are especially difficult, like the shoulder and chest of suit jackets and blazers.

What, then, are the markers of proper fit? What should you look for when finding a garment? Feeling stylish and having confidence in what you are wearing is no doubt important, but so is being comfortable.

Starting with trousers, pants should wear at your natural waist (or as close to it as possible) and have enough room for comfortable movement. Just how slim they are is a matter of personal preference, but never go skinny.



Break is another area where personal taste comes into account.

I like a little break so there is no pooling and a clean straight line all the way down my leg, but not so short that my ankle is showing.

For men who want cuffs on their trousers (and you should ALWAYS cuff heavy, winter weight trousers) go with 1.5 to 2 inches.


When it comes to your suit jacket or blazer, remember to check the shoulders and chest first. Without a proper fit there, there’s nothing you can do to remedy the garment. When you stand with the jacket buttoned, the lapels ought to rest flat without any fabric pulling at the chest or abdomen.

Italian men prefer slightly tighter suits that have a slight pull around the top button, but this is a matter of finding out what’s right for you.

Your shirt cuffs should protrude about ¼ to ¾” from the jacket sleeves and the collar should extend a similar amount above the jacket’s lapel.



Shirt tails ought to hit at least half-way down your trouser fly but not below the crotch for a comfortable and elegant tuck.

Suits that are tapered with high armholes are ideal for capturing the slim, modern look while maximizing comfort and range of motion.

These are the basic elements of a proper fit.

The modern man looks best with trim, fitted clothes that remain comfortable and don’t restrict his movement. In a suit or shirt tailored to those ideals, you’ll be confident, comfortable, and attractive—perhaps the three essential cornerstones of style.

(via ardenreed-deactivated20121206)


Blazers & Sport Coats Part II: When to Wear

ardenreed:

You’ve already learned a little bit about sport jackets and blazers, as well as some basics on pairing them with pants and other articles of clothing. For a refresher, please take another look at part 1 of our series, “Everything You Need to Know About Sport Jackets” here.

Of course, it wasn’t quite everything, so we’re filling in the blanks now.

Today, despite a major resurgence in men’s fashion and an obvious increase in style-conscious men, fewer and fewer guys are donning suits—even to work.

In a business casual office, a blazer or sport coat makes you look dignified and put-together while fitting in with the dress code and your co-workers.

Maintaining a professional, trustworthy look is just as easy with a sport coat as with a suit. From the classroom to the construction site, the sport coat is a better alternative for many men when suits might be too formal.

It’s equally as good at helping you make a good first impression or ensuring you look almost as good as the lady on your arm.

With just a quintessential navy blazer, you can construct dozens of outfits for any type of occasion. Add to the mix some other sport coats—perhaps a light gray all-season, a checked Harris Tweed for winter, and a fun burgundy for special engagements—and you’ll be able to pull off dozens of classic looks.

Paired with jeans or wool trousers, a dress shirt or a sweater, sneakers or leather-soled monk straps, the sport coat looks at home.

You can wear a sport coat over a t-shirt (not recommended), a regular work outfit, or a layered fall look. It is one of the most versatile items in your wardrobe.

From the refined to the rustic, the sport coat does it all. And it does it with an air of casualness and comfort that other garments can’t match, all the while ensuring you remain the most stylish man in the room.

(via ardenreed-deactivated20121206)


Recently, one of the main items I want to add to my wardrobe is a leather jacket. The problem is that it’s easy to do leather jackets wrong. I don’t want to look like a motorcycle enthusiast or a greaser when I don mine, and it’s hard to find a good leather jacket on a college student budget. It is especially hard if you’re outside a city or town with a good vintage shopping community. I’m keeping my eye out, and will update if I do find something worth splurging for, but a recent post on TSB had some great leather jacket looks—one in classic black, another in faded brown and finally, a more chic designer look that I would not likely ever wear myself, but he kills it.