Proper Fit | Shirts, Jackets & Trousers
Fit is the number one most important factor in men’s style. That cannot be stressed enough. The difference between an $89 blazer from H&M and a $1200 Armani coat is minimal when they’re both well tailored.
That is why going custom—especially at prices offered by modern bespoke tailors both on- and offline—is so popular today. We at Arden Reed believe that fit and good tailoring are the foundations of the stylish man.
Sometimes we convince ourselves to buy that new shirt, even when we know it doesn’t fit.
It’ll just end up hanging in your closet. (Confession time: I’m often guilty of this)
Remember that you can get any article tailored, but certain aspects are especially difficult, like the shoulder and chest of suit jackets and blazers.
What, then, are the markers of proper fit? What should you look for when finding a garment? Feeling stylish and having confidence in what you are wearing is no doubt important, but so is being comfortable.
Starting with trousers, pants should wear at your natural waist (or as close to it as possible) and have enough room for comfortable movement. Just how slim they are is a matter of personal preference, but never go skinny.
Break is another area where personal taste comes into account.
I like a little break so there is no pooling and a clean straight line all the way down my leg, but not so short that my ankle is showing.
For men who want cuffs on their trousers (and you should ALWAYS cuff heavy, winter weight trousers) go with 1.5 to 2 inches.
When it comes to your suit jacket or blazer, remember to check the shoulders and chest first. Without a proper fit there, there’s nothing you can do to remedy the garment. When you stand with the jacket buttoned, the lapels ought to rest flat without any fabric pulling at the chest or abdomen.
Italian men prefer slightly tighter suits that have a slight pull around the top button, but this is a matter of finding out what’s right for you.
Your shirt cuffs should protrude about ¼ to ¾” from the jacket sleeves and the collar should extend a similar amount above the jacket’s lapel.
Shirt tails ought to hit at least half-way down your trouser fly but not below the crotch for a comfortable and elegant tuck.
Suits that are tapered with high armholes are ideal for capturing the slim, modern look while maximizing comfort and range of motion.
These are the basic elements of a proper fit.
The modern man looks best with trim, fitted clothes that remain comfortable and don’t restrict his movement. In a suit or shirt tailored to those ideals, you’ll be confident, comfortable, and attractive—perhaps the three essential cornerstones of style.